Disclaimer: This suit was provided to The Peak Lapel free of charge for the purposes of this review.
As you probably know, when it comes to “custom” suits people are referring to one of two things. Made To Measure — which is when an existing pattern for a suit is altered to your body. Or bespoke, which is a purely custom pattern, constructed on your body, across multiple fittings, just for you.
Both are great options, depending on what you need, but Alan David suits offers something somewhat unique in the “custom suit” market, namely, a space in between these two options. Alan David suits does not quite build the suit on your body like a true bespoke tailor would, but your pattern is drafted 100% from scratch, just for your body and fit preferences. Unlike typical MTM suiting which often runs into pattern modification limitations, Alan David can truly tweak, refine, or develop the pattern for your suit in precisely the way you would like. Want a raised waistband? No problem. High rise? Low rise? Also no problem. Have uneven hips? That can be accommodated. Want a slim bicep without a super tight armhole? Equally doable. In other words - the pattern Alan David is creating for your suit is bespoke; the suit just isn’t made by the same person taking your measurements.
Many would point out this is not true bespoke suiting - and they would be correct. But it’s also less than half the price of a typical bespoke suit, with Alan David suiting starting at just about $1,100. Think of Alan David, instead, as refined, advanced, pro-level MTM suiting for the guy that has graduated beyond plugging in his measurements online.
All of this custom pattern-making also allows Alan David the ability for literally any customization in the book. If you can dream it, for the most part, they can make it. Whatever lapel style, shape, design you want is not an issue. Same with waistband closure, trouser pleating, jacket buttoning, and so on. I even changed my mind mid-way through production and they changed my trousers from pleated to flat-front! (What can I say? I chickened out.)
Perhaps the best part of Alan David is the process. Everyone there is super nice and down to earth. There is nothing stuffy or stuck-up about Alan David whatsoever. They sit with you to select a fabric, run through your preferred design options — however advanced or basic they might be — and then proceed to take dozens of measurements, carefully recording them all. These measurements are then sent to their US-based factory where most of the garment is made, cut, and assembled by hand, including the pressing. (Some stages are made with a machine, of course, but the most crucial elements are all done by hand.) If you prefer, a basted fitting is arranged before the final garment is produced. When your suit does arrive, the quality and fit is instantly noticeable. Of all my MTM experience, putting this suit on for the first time was one of the best. It needed a few final tweaks, and was then shipped direct to my home a few days later.
And oh! Did I mention the fabric of my suit is 100% cashmere, is as light as a feather, yet somehow warm enough to be a 4-season suit? It’s truly something special. I could bore with you the various design details I chose, but that is not what is truly important here. Rather, the key takeaway — and why I think Alan David is very much worth noting — is that if you’ve graduated beyond standard MTM suiting, but can’t quite yet take the leap to full-on bespoke suiting, Alan David is the way to go. They sit in a very unique position — and have for generations — offering truly high quality garments at a price that is eminently reasonable for what you are getting. If you are in the market for a new suit, check out Alan David.